![]() Instead of a smooth removal, the lug nuts were a little hard to get off after a winter on. The corrosion creeps along the thread, even though only the tip of the stud is exposed. ![]() Sorry, this is for open nuts, not closed. We share the best microfiber mops, steam-cleaning mops and spray mops for hardwood. Sports equipment Batteries Guns, ammunition, and self-defense sprays Medications and oxygen Alcoholic beverages Camping equipment Portable electronic. The contents in the Fluid Film spray cans are the same ones in the gallon and 5-gallon drums. Are you talking about the actual Fluid Film product you buy in a can, or taking your truck to an undercoating shop that sprays a rust inhibitor product on the. For those of you who prefer spray cans over using a spray paint gun, you will need around 5 to 6 cans. Many people here in the salt belt use antiseize on their lugs with no problems (though I know others swear it will make the world implode). Theyll leave a film on the floor that will build up over time. The Fluid Film also comes packaged in spray cans. This non-hazardous/non-toxic film will not readily dry or get gummy or tacky. I wasn't sure what to put on there that could withstand the centripetal forces - think this would work?įF would work but its going to have a pretty significant reduction of friction on the threads. FLUID FILM is a solvent free, Lanolin based rust and corrosion inhibitor, Lubricant and penetrant. My lug nuts for my winter wheels are open, and the ends of the studs tend to corrode. I spray aerospace 303 on the rubber/plastic parts, including boots, so why not all of the parts that are susceptible to rust? I think I remember that thread now I'd forgotten. When memoved in the spring neither the F or the home brew showed any sign of rust. The tags were suspended under my car for the duration of a winter. I cleaned some bare metal tags and applied FF, another rust prevention product and a home made concoction of chainsaw chain oil and paraffin wax. I did a little test a couple of years ago. rocker panel (removing rocker panel covers and spraying inside and painted metal areaħ.Is this stuff really worth the cost? Looks to be around $10/11.75 oz. ![]() suspension components and everything around there (not on brakes)ģ. pretty much everywhere underneath besides exhaust (including spare tire lift mechanism and inside frame)Ģ. Mostly just overspray got on the exhaust.ġ. One other area many people forget is the spare tire lift mechanism.Īh, so spray the quarter panel, wheel well area from the inside access panels. Speaking of the hatch, the latch and striker mechanisms are also important to hit. Are there any non obvious, hard to reach areas that are important to get sprayed So far I basicall. Also make sure you don't spray so much in as to block any drains. For those that have used Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc. Yes, you can spray the inner door areas by using the drain holes at the bottom of the door, but make sure you spray both forward and back to make sure the entire bottom of the door is covered. Pull the access panels at rear sides of the vehicle and spray down into the seams along the wheel well lip and bottom of the quarter panels. So, any closed area such as frame box sections, inside the rockers, down into seams, etc. The fact that it burns right off is why you don't want to waste your time there.Īs for areas to get, remember, rust generally starts where water and road salt get into a semi-closed area, then sit. It'll burn right off, but it will be one hell of a smoke show. First, you don't want to spray it on the exhaust.
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